HIGHLAND HOLIDAY - DAY 3 - CULLODEN AND CLAVA CAIRNS

This was the day I had been waiting for. Our visit to Culloden. The battle which is such a large feature of Diana Gabaldon's Outlander novels. We started our visit in the Culloden Visitor Centre, where there is a large, informative exhibition giving the history of both the Highlanders and the Government parts in the Rising. There are dozens of interactive screens that visitors can touch, where a vast array of characters from both sides tell their stories. We spent a long time looking through the exhibition,  and then we came across a room where a film was just about to begin, We stood in the middle of the room, with four screens surrounding us. Things started off very quietly, with the wind howling across the empty moor. Slowly men from both sides started to appear on the screens. Different groups, all emerging, ready to face one another in battle. Then all hell broke loose, with guns and cannons firing, and the opposing sides clashing in close combat. Men were screaming and shouting in the midst of battle, and many fell down dead or injured. Suddenly, just as quickly as the battle had started, it concluded. The screens slowly faded, with men lying dead all around and the survivors, still standing, looking shocked and breathless. Credit for the film was given to a number of re enactment groups. All of whom had played their parts well and convincingly. We continued on our way through the exhibition, where I came across an account that was very similar to the story of Jamie Fraser in Diana Gabaldon's book Voyager. A Highland officer called John Fraser was captured and supposedly executed and left for dead. A Government officer found him still alive, rescued him and let him go. We then joined a guided tour around the battlefield, where we were told more of the history of the battle. We saw the Clan stones, the memorial, and the cottage.

The restored Old Leanach Cottage.

The Memorial Cairn built 1881.

The battlefield is a strange and fascinating place. There is a subdued, solemn atmosphere that enfolds the whole site, and you can't help but feel affected by it.
As we were leaving, we found the stone that had been laid and dedicated to Diana Gabaldon, by the Ladies of Lallybroch.

Diana Gabaldon's Stone from the Ladies of Lallybroch

Leaving Culloden behind, we drove the short distance to the Clava Cairns, an ancient burial ground with a large number of cairns and standing stones, which were spectacular in the late afternoon sunshine.This is another strange and beautiful place. After a bit of searching we found the split stone, which is supposed to be like the stone Claire Randall goes through and finds herself  back in the eighteenth century, where she meets Jamie Fraser.

The Split Stones at Clava Cairns.

4000 Year Old Passage Grave at Clava Cairns

On our way back, we drove along the same military road we had been on the previous day. We pulled over by Loch Tarff. The sun had now set and we stood looking at the mountains silhouetted in the still waters of the Loch. There was no sound except for the sound of deer in the distance. No cars or planes, just the sound of nature and its silence surrounding us. For a few wonderful minutes, we were engulfed in total stillness and it felt like we could have been at any moment in time.

Reflections on Loch Tarff

As if the day had not been eventful enough, we discovered that the aurora borealis was forecast to put on a strong display that evening. After dinner, we went down the track where we were able to see a green glow in the northern sky, and looking up at the milky way, we saw shooting stars and grey light flickering and undulating as the aurora spread across the night sky.

Green Glow of Aurora on the horizon.

Photos courtesy of Sean D. Hattersley Photography. Please like his page by following the link for more excellent photos of Scotland and other places.