HIGHLAND HOLIDAY - DAY NINE - THE ROAD TRIP HOME

We were up early, and with the cars packed and the cottage cleaned through, we were away by ten thirty. The only way to tackle a ten hour drive is to make it part of the holiday and turn it into a road trip. Firstly saying goodbye to some of our nearest neighbours!

Hairy coos, or Highland cattle. }:0)

Sign explaining the 'Hairy coos'.

We then drove on to Invermoriston, where we stopped and had a look at the fast flowing river and an old bridge that spanned it. 

Invermoriston Bridge

We also discovered an ancient well dedicated to St. Columba. Getting back to the car we noticed a poster advertising a ceilidh that evening – maybe next time! Moving on to Fort Augustus, we found a shop selling hot bridies, a delicious Scottish pastry filled with mince and gravy and although we weren’t getting on a ship to take us to the Colonies, like Brianna in Diana Gabaldon’s Drums of Autumn, they were certainly filling enough to sustain us until we found a place to have lunch. I had taken over the driving by now, and we hadn’t long left Fort Augustus before we found ourselves in a queue of traffic, waiting while one of the swing bridges along the Caledonian canal was opened to allow the passage of a large boat with masts. This event was enough for every man there to get out of their cars and walk along the road to watch this spectacle, and my own men were no exception. After a good few minutes of gawking at this feat of engineering, they all made their way back to their respective vehicles before the lights turned back to green, though this being the Highlands, there was no mad rush. Our next stop was a return to the Glencoe visitor centre, where we witnessed the mountains topped, once again, with thick mist. We then continued our journey through the stunning and atmospheric Pass of Glencoe.

Glencoe Mist

On some of our journeys we had been using the Sat Nav or GPS. This proved itself to be a temperamental device, if not at times down right homicidal. I renamed the voice Loaghaire- Leery, from the Outlander books, as she seemed hell bent on giving us false information or trying to lead us astray. She failed to inform us about roundabouts, tried to send us on the wrong route to Glasgow, had a mental breakdown, insisting that we were in the middle of an industrial estate, when we were on the motorway, and at one stage, tried to insist that we needed to turn left as we drove alongside Loch Lomond. We ignored this particular piece of advice, as the car is not amphibious.

Loch Lomond

Having safely reached Loch Lomond we stopped for a picnic lunch at a place called Firkin Point. Everywhere you look in the Highlands there is a breathtaking view and Loch Lomond is no exception. On the other side of the Loch, the sun shone through the trees as they displayed the best of their autumn colours.

On the other side of Glasgow, we said goodbye to our son, who not having anyone to share the driving, was breaking up his journey home by staying overnight in Lanark. 

Falls of the Clyde near Lanark

We continued our own journey, passing through the Lowlands. Beautiful in their own way, but no match for the Highlands. It was late afternoon and the sun was beginning to set by the time we reached the Lake District, and we drove through a colourful sunset which seemed to go on for quite some time before darkness edged its way in.

Later that evening, after ten and a half hours on the road, we finally pulled up on the driveway.

We have all fallen in love with the Highlands, and we know that there are many more places to visit and experiences to have. With only a week there, we had no time to explore Inverness or Fort William. Our visit to the Isle of Skye was far too brief. My husband laments the fact that we didn’t visit a whisky distillery, and I didn’t get my cruise on Loch Ness. Needless to say, we are hoping to go back to Scotland at the earliest opportunity, and we have been left with many happy memories of our first, all too short exploration, north of the border.

Photos courtesy of Sean D. Hattersley Photography. Please like his page by following the link for more excellent photos of Scotland and other places.

HIGHLAND HOLIDAY - DAY SEVEN - FORT GEORGE & RAIN

This was our last full day in Scotland, and it was raining. Living in England, I have seen heavy rain before, I have seen persistent rain before, but I have never seen such heavy and persistent rain before. This was truly Scottish weather. After much discussion we decided to go to Fort George. Having decided that our original plan to have a boat ride on Loch Ness was no longer a good idea. As we drove along the road by Loch Ness we realized why there had been road signs warning of heavy rain. We encountered waterfalls coming down the hillside, not just trickles of water, but torrents cascading down by the side of the road, where no waterfalls had been before. The surface water made the roads more like streams or large pools, and driving was difficult, if not dangerous.

A roadside waterfall along Loch Ness swollen by heavy rain.

On the plus side, the rain somehow highlighted all the autumn colours, making everything look more vivid and vibrant. There was also real Scottish mist over the mountains!

Scottish Mist in Fort Augustus

We eventually arrived at Fort George and kitted ourselves out in our waterproofs and umbrellas. A certain person, let’s for the sake of argument call him ‘My Husband,’ had assured me that he had done his research and that there was plenty to see at Fort George. A fort built after the Jacobite rising to quell any more unrest in the Highlands, it is still a fully functioning barracks with soldiers stationed there. When we purchased our tickets we were given audio guides to help us navigate our way around,There are numerous exhibitions and a museum, which at the time of our visit was closed for refurbishment, and not due to open again until spring 2013. However, a lot of the visitor area at Fort George is out in the open. It was very cold and very wet. We only met two other people visiting that day, and because it was so quiet, there was a very surreal atmosphere. It almost felt like we were trespassing. We squelched our way around the fort, climbing up steep, slippery ramparts, following the instructions of our audio guide. We then had a late lunch and hot drinks in the cafe, which was also a very odd place. It had the feel of somewhere that had not changed in decades, with its whitewashed walls and basic crockery and cutlery, it felt very much like an army canteen. After only a couple of hours we decided to make our way back to the cottage. I think it is safe to say that Fort George is not an all weather attraction. My husband and son thoroughly enjoyed themselves though, and I’m sure that on a warmer, dryer day it would feel like a more welcoming and interesting place.

The Entrance Drawbridge to Fort George

A Cannon at Fort George

Bastions of Fort George

On the drive back the rain had started to ease, and we decided to go to Fort Augustus see if the rainfall had affected the flow of the river. There were even more newly sprouted waterfalls as we made our way along the roads. Our last call on this day was the Dundreggan dam, a hydroelectric power station a few miles from where we were staying. I wanted to visit the dam to get an idea of where Brianna Mackenzie from Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander series might work, and where her son, Young Jemmy, would be held captive. The large sluice gates in the dam had been opened to allow some of the excess water through, following the heavy rainfall, and it was a most impressive sight. We then made our way back to the cottage to start packing for our departure the next morning.

Sluice Gate of Dundreggan Dam with Floodwater

Dundreggan Dam

Photos courtesy of Sean D. Hattersley Photography. Please like his page by following the link for more excellent photos of Scotland and other places.

HIGHLAND HOLIDAY DAY SIX - BRODIE CASTLE

Heavy rain had been forecast today. Over the last couple of days we had seen a number of roadside signs warning of heavy rain. We decided to head further east, where the weather was supposed to be better. The skies were cloudy, but there were signs of brightness as we drove along. Our destination today was Brodie Castle, a property owned by the National Trust for Scotland. A tower house built in the 16^th century, and gradually extended during the 18^th and 19^th centuries. We went on a guided tour around the castle and were told a lot about its history. The Laird, or Brodie of Brodie as he was called, was actually on the government side during the Rising, and housed government troops there before the battle of Culloden. In more recent times the castle has become famous for its daffodil collection, with magnificent displays in the springtime.

Brodie Castle

The Doors to Brodie Castle

After lunch in the quaint tea room, we went for a walk through the woods that encircle a large pond. We saw a vast array of unusual fungi, including one that is usually acquainted with fairies and toad stools. Many of the trees were turning and losing their leaves, and as we completed our walk we approached an avenue of beech trees that were shedding their leaves, as a steady and persistent breeze blew through them. We stood at the edge of the field and watched as they cascaded down in a constant stream, like large yellow snowflakes drifting to the ground.

Fly Agaric Toadstool

Falling Leaves at the Avenue of Brodie Castle

It was now late afternoon and we drove on to Culbin forest. This is a pine forest on the edge of sand dunes. We were hoping to walk down to the dunes, but only managed a short walk before the threatened rain finally caught up with us, and we just managed to get back to the car before it started to come too heavily.

Culbin Forest

My husband and son wanted to see the North Sea before we headed back, and we drove on through rain to a seaside village called Findhorn, a few miles from RAF Kinloss. We had seen a lot of military jets flying over when we were walking through Culbin forest. It was starting to get dark by now, and we parked on a car park near the sand dunes. The men walked down to the beach as I stood watching them under a huge umbrella, hoping that they wouldn’t want to stay too long. Thankfully, they didn’t. It was dark by the time we started our drive back and the rain was now heavy – Scottish rain!

Findhorn Beach and the North Sea

Photos courtesy of Sean D. Hattersley Photography. Please like his page by following the link for more excellent photos of Scotland and other places.

HIGHLAND HOLIDAY - DAY FIVE- EILEAN DONAN AND THE ISLE OF SKYE

Today, our plan was to visit Eilean Donan castle and then go on to Skye. As we drove along we encountered the Highland mountains in all their glory. It was impossible not to stop the car every few miles to get out and admire the breathtaking scenery. At every turn in the road we were surrounded  by towering mountains on either side of the road, ahead of us and behind us. Everywhere we looked we saw a new and amazing view. 

Autumn Colour in Glen Shiel

As we tried to continue our journey we came to Glen Shiel, the site of a battle between Jacobites and government troops in 1719. Over 100 Highlanders died and it is hard to believe that such a beautiful spot could have seen such violence and bloodshed. 

We then stopped again at the south end of Loch Duich, a sea loch near Alt a-Chruinn, with yet more mountains reflected in the water.

Loch Duich

There was a pretty abandoned kirk at the side of the Loch. The kirk was open to the elements with graves and headstones inside. We eventually made it Eilean Donan in time for lunch, and then went around the castle. There has been a castle on this site for hundreds of years, though the present castle was sympathetically restored early in the 20^th century. The castle and its location are, quite simply, spectacular, and it is one of the most photographed castles in the world. 

Eilean Donan Castle

After taking our own photographs, we reluctantly left Eilean Donan behind and drove through the Kyle of Lochalsh and onwards towards the Isle of Skye. We drove over the bridge connecting Skye with the mainland, and soon encountered the breathtaking Cuillin Hills. It was late afternoon and we parked up, and walked along a rocky track, surrounded by mountains, rivers and waterfalls.

Cuillin Hills near Sligachan Hotel

Cuillin Hills Sunset over Loch Ainort

We started our drive home as the sun began to set over Loch Ainort, another sea loch. It was almost dark by the time we got back to Eilean Donan and stopped to see the castle floodlit and reflected in the Loch. We drove back through the mountains after darkness had fallen, and stopped once more at Glen Shiel, to experience the place in the dark, and looked up at the clear, starry sky with the sound of a waterfall nearby. Although we had originally only planned to visit Eilean Donan and Skye, the Highlands had other ideas, we couldn’t help but keep stopping to try to take in as much of the scenery and area as we could, and we couldn’t help but feel that our day had been one of the best that we’d had. 

Eilean Donan Castle Floodlit after sunset.

Photos courtesy of Sean D. Hattersley Photography. Please like his page by following the link for more excellent photos of Scotland and other places.

HIGHLAND HOLIDAY - DAY 4 - CAIRNGORMS

It always seems that at least one day of a holiday doesn't go as well as one would have hoped, and today was one of those days. My husband and son wanted to visit a mountain range and decided on the Cairngorms. The drive there was beautiful, and we passed through the town of Aviemore. A lovely, almost picturesque town situated in the Cairngorm National Park. It caters largely for winter sports and walking within the Park. 

The Cairngorms from Loch Morlich

We gradually ascended up towards the Cairngorm Ski Resort, passing through the Glenmore forest with pretty rivers running through it. We parked up when we reached the resort and went to the ticket office. Here, we purchased tickets for the funicular railway, that takes people to the Ptarmigan station up the mountain. We were advised once we had bought the tickets that if we wished to walk on the mountain we would have to pay for a guide. Otherwise, we would have to stay within the confines of the station. This was the first disappointment, as it was a beautiful, clear day, with no forecast for poor weather. Our ride up the mountain on the railway was interesting and as we got higher the views were stunning, and our ears popped as we climbed higher. The Ptarmigan consists of a shop, restaurant and viewing terrace. The shop was over commercialized and over priced, as was the restaurant. The viewing terrace was the only place which would not have caused us added expense. The platform gave expansive views of the surrounding mountains, though the area was covered by fences and ski lifts which spoiled the views somewhat. We all felt a little bit disappointed, and our son was unable to take the sort of photographs that he wanted, and after only a short time up there we decided to get on the railway and descend down the mountain. The resort is very much a tourist trap, which claims to be taking care of a fragile environment, but at the same time building railways and ski stations. Something of a contradiction. 

Once we we back at the base station, my son, being a little more adventurous, went off for a walk down a path, and reported that he had found a quite spot with mountainous scenery, nothing in the way that blighted the landscape such as pylons for ski lifts and fences for catching the snow for the resort. A real piece of the Cairngorms as it should be.

Cairngorm Scenery

We wished later that we had researched our visit more thoroughly and gone to the Nevis Range. There on the slopes on Aonach Mor is a gondola which goes to a station, which might not be as high as the Ptarmigan at the Cairngorm Range, but one has more freedom and space when you arrive there. 

We drove back towards Fort Augustus and had a leisurely, if cold, climb up Carn a t-Suidhe. Once again surrounded by the sound of deer rutting in the Glens around us.

The View west from Carn a t-Suidhe

I suppose that allowances must be made for different peoples needs and expectations. Away from the resort, the Cairngorms are beautiful and spectacular. Though with hindsight and better research, I would recommend the Nevis range or the Glencoe range, which are both just as spectacular, but more visitor friendly.

Photos courtesy of Sean D. Hattersley Photography. Please like his page by following the link for more excellent photos of Scotland and other places.

HIGHLAND HOLIDAY - DAY 3 - CULLODEN AND CLAVA CAIRNS

This was the day I had been waiting for. Our visit to Culloden. The battle which is such a large feature of Diana Gabaldon's Outlander novels. We started our visit in the Culloden Visitor Centre, where there is a large, informative exhibition giving the history of both the Highlanders and the Government parts in the Rising. There are dozens of interactive screens that visitors can touch, where a vast array of characters from both sides tell their stories. We spent a long time looking through the exhibition,  and then we came across a room where a film was just about to begin, We stood in the middle of the room, with four screens surrounding us. Things started off very quietly, with the wind howling across the empty moor. Slowly men from both sides started to appear on the screens. Different groups, all emerging, ready to face one another in battle. Then all hell broke loose, with guns and cannons firing, and the opposing sides clashing in close combat. Men were screaming and shouting in the midst of battle, and many fell down dead or injured. Suddenly, just as quickly as the battle had started, it concluded. The screens slowly faded, with men lying dead all around and the survivors, still standing, looking shocked and breathless. Credit for the film was given to a number of re enactment groups. All of whom had played their parts well and convincingly. We continued on our way through the exhibition, where I came across an account that was very similar to the story of Jamie Fraser in Diana Gabaldon's book Voyager. A Highland officer called John Fraser was captured and supposedly executed and left for dead. A Government officer found him still alive, rescued him and let him go. We then joined a guided tour around the battlefield, where we were told more of the history of the battle. We saw the Clan stones, the memorial, and the cottage.

The restored Old Leanach Cottage.

The Memorial Cairn built 1881.

The battlefield is a strange and fascinating place. There is a subdued, solemn atmosphere that enfolds the whole site, and you can't help but feel affected by it.
As we were leaving, we found the stone that had been laid and dedicated to Diana Gabaldon, by the Ladies of Lallybroch.

Diana Gabaldon's Stone from the Ladies of Lallybroch

Leaving Culloden behind, we drove the short distance to the Clava Cairns, an ancient burial ground with a large number of cairns and standing stones, which were spectacular in the late afternoon sunshine.This is another strange and beautiful place. After a bit of searching we found the split stone, which is supposed to be like the stone Claire Randall goes through and finds herself  back in the eighteenth century, where she meets Jamie Fraser.

The Split Stones at Clava Cairns.

4000 Year Old Passage Grave at Clava Cairns

On our way back, we drove along the same military road we had been on the previous day. We pulled over by Loch Tarff. The sun had now set and we stood looking at the mountains silhouetted in the still waters of the Loch. There was no sound except for the sound of deer in the distance. No cars or planes, just the sound of nature and its silence surrounding us. For a few wonderful minutes, we were engulfed in total stillness and it felt like we could have been at any moment in time.

Reflections on Loch Tarff

As if the day had not been eventful enough, we discovered that the aurora borealis was forecast to put on a strong display that evening. After dinner, we went down the track where we were able to see a green glow in the northern sky, and looking up at the milky way, we saw shooting stars and grey light flickering and undulating as the aurora spread across the night sky.

Green Glow of Aurora on the horizon.

Photos courtesy of Sean D. Hattersley Photography. Please like his page by following the link for more excellent photos of Scotland and other places.

HIGHLAND HOLIDAY - DAY TWO - URQUHART CASTLE

Despite the long journey we had experienced the day before, we all woke feeling refreshed and ready to start our holiday. We drove to the village shop in Invermoriston for some milk. Seven miles for a pint of milk, is enough to make you realize that you are far enough removed from civilization. There was also an amazing traditional craft shop there, selling things like wooden clogs, deer pelts, Sgian-dubhs, and the more usual things like Celtic jewelry and leather goods.

After lunch we drove to Urquart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness. And also the place that Claire, our heroine in the Outlander books, visits with her first husband. It is a ruined castle in a spectacular location. 

Grant Tower - Urquhart Castle

We were informed on our arrival that there was going to be a performance a little later in the afternoon. We spent some time looking around before we heard the announcement, and made our way to an open area of the castle, where we encountered a shabby oddly dressed man who called himself The Time Travelling Story Teller. He was part of a theatre company, which encourages audience participation. We were told to touch the castle walls, so that the castle could tell its story. Various members of the audience, myself included, were given slips of paper to read from. My story was about a Jacobite warrior who was trying to blow up the castle. Most appropriate, as I instantly thought about Jamie, our hero in the books. Another performer then joined us. She played Lady Deirdre who wanted to marry her warrior lover. The actress had long curly hair, and dressed in a long robe, also made me think of Claire. 

Lady Deirdre 

At the end of the performance we were ‘brought forward’ back into the 21^st century. For an Outlander fan like myself, the experience couldn’t have been more appropriate, or fun!

Amazingly there was also a boat, taking people on cruises along the loch, called the Jacobite Warrior!

Jacobite Warrior Cruise Boat

Later, we drove on to Fort Augustus to see the locks of the Caledonian canal. These are a series of massive locks that are operated at set times to allow the optimum amount of boating traffic through. Unfortunately at the time we were there, there was no activity, and instead we walked along the canal to see the wonderful views from the edge of the loch. Getting back in the car we drove up one of General Wade's military roads, built to suppress any further risings among the Highlanders and to allow easier access for Government troops. We stopped at a place called the Suidhe viewpoint.

General Wade's Military Road and Suidhe Viewpoint

As we got out of the car, we were met with not only the most spectacular view of mountains, lochs and the Great Glen, but also the sound of rutting deer filled the air. As we got into the car to drive back it was starting to get dark, but we were able to see the deer chasing and rutting along a river that runs through Gleann nan Eun. Later that evening we could hear them again, from the track near our holiday cottage.

'Grant Tower - Urquhart Castle' and 'General Wade's Military Road and Suidhe Viewpoint' photos courtesy of Sean D. Hattersley Photography. Please like his page by following the link for more excellent photos of Scotland and other places.

HIGHLAND HOLIDAY - DAY ONE

After many years of promising ourselves a holiday in Scotland, we finally succumbed after I had read Diana Gabaldon's Outlander series. The wonderful descriptions of the Highlands in her beautifully written novels, made the allure of Scotland irresistible  and we went on our first holiday north of the border in October 2012. I knew that this was going to be a holiday I would never want to forget, so I kept a daily record of our trip. I will begin to share it with you here


DAY ONE - SATURDAY 6TH OCTOBER

We set our alarm for the unearthly hour of five am. My husband loaded the car, while I dashed around packing last minute things and trying to make myself feel human with a strong cup of coffee. We were on the road before seven am and watched the sun rise as we drove along. I took over the driving at Lancaster services to give my husband a break. This was perfectly timed on his part, as we soon hit areas of fog. This not only obscured the beautiful views of the Lake District as we drove through it, but also stretched my nerves and levels of concentration to their limits. He took over the driving again when we reached Glasgow, I was in no state to be tackling the complex motorway system through there!

Loch Lomond

We stopped for a picnic lunch by Loch Lomond, surely one of the best places anywhere to stop and take a break. The waves were lapping against the shore and the birds were chirruping in the hedgerows. I took over the driving again, just in time to encounter some of the more winding (nerve racking) roads around the Loch. My husband thought this was most amusing. I did not. The road conditions gradually improved, and as we drove through the Glen Coe mountains, we had our first taste of what the Highlands had in store for us. We stopped at the Glencoe Visitor Centre to take in the spectacular scenery from the view point.

The Pass of Glencoe

As we continued our journey we saw our first glimpse of snow on the top of the north facing mountains on the Ben Nevis range. This kind of scenery is too good to miss, and we had another brief stop at the Commando Memorial. The Highlands have been a training ground for the Commandos for many years, and the vista from there over towards the Nevis range was also very impressive.
We drove onward, stopping once again for supplies in Fort William, then continuing on to our holiday cottage a few miles from Invermoriston and the shores of Loch Ness. We arrived at five pm, after a ten hour journey. We managed to get there ahead of our son, who despite having left the day before, had stopped frequently for photographic opportunities along the way.
Later that evening, after we had all settled in and had dinner, we walked along the track outside the cottage to explore our darkened surroundings, and looked up at the bright starry skies, unhindered by the light pollution we have to contend with at home. And in the distance we heard, for the first time, deer calling in the forest. The first time we had heard the sound of rutting deer in the Highlands.

Photos courtesy of Sean D. Hattersley Photography. Please like his page by following the link for more excellent photos of Scotland and other places.